Bleaching your hair at home can be a thrilling way to transform your look, but it comes with serious risks if not done properly. As a professional hairstylist with over a decade of experience, I’ve seen countless DIY disasters that could have been avoided with the right knowledge. Before you reach for that bleach kit, arm yourself with these essential tips to protect your hair and achieve salon-worthy results.
1. Start with unwashed hair
Your scalp’s natural oils create a protective barrier during bleaching. Skip washing for 2-3 days before application to minimize scalp irritation and damage. Your hair will thank you for this simple yet crucial step.
2. Do a strand test first
Never skip this crucial step! Snip a small section from underneath your hair and bleach it. This reveals how your specific hair type reacts, helping prevent shocking results or severe damage across your entire head.
3. Invest in professional-grade products
Drugstore box kits often contain harsh chemicals that can fry your hair. Professional products might cost more initially but deliver better results with less damage. The investment pays off in healthier hair long-term.
4. Protect your hairline and ears
Apply petroleum jelly along your hairline, ears, and neck before bleaching. This simple barrier prevents chemical burns on delicate skin areas. Don’t forget behind your ears – a commonly missed spot!
5. Work in sections
Divide your hair into 4-6 manageable sections using clips. Start applying bleach at the mid-lengths, then ends, and finally roots. Roots process faster due to heat from your scalp – timing matters here!
6. Never bleach previously colored hair
Box dye and bleach create unpredictable chemical reactions that can literally melt your hair. If you’ve used permanent color recently, visit a professional for a color correction instead of risking serious damage.
7. Mind your application time
Set a timer! Leaving bleach on too long doesn’t make hair lighter – it just causes breakage. Check progress every 10 minutes by wiping a small section clean. Most formulas shouldn’t exceed 45 minutes total.
8. Use the right developer volume
Higher developer volumes don’t always mean better results. For dark hair, start with 20-volume, never exceeding 30-volume at home. Anything stronger risks severe damage and should be left to professionals only.
9. Apply from bottom to top
Start applying bleach to the ends and mid-lengths first. Your roots process up to 50% faster due to heat from your scalp, so always save them for last. This technique ensures even color results.
10. Never overlap on pre-lightened hair
When doing touch-ups, apply bleach only to the new growth. Overlapping on already bleached sections causes breakage and that dreaded “chemical haircut.” Use foils to isolate roots if needed for precision.
11. Cover with plastic wrap
After application, wrap your hair in plastic to trap heat and speed up processing. This technique, called the “greenhouse method,” helps lift color more effectively while using less product. Just don’t add additional heat sources!
12. Prepare an emergency rinse station
If your scalp starts burning intensely, you need to rinse immediately! Have your shower ready before starting. Unexpected reactions happen even to professionals, and quick action prevents chemical burns.
13. Never bleach damaged hair
Brittle, over-processed hair can’t withstand more chemical treatments. If your hair already feels like straw or breaks easily, focus on repair treatments for 4-6 weeks before considering any lightening process.
14. Tone immediately after bleaching
Freshly bleached hair often has brassy orange or yellow tones. Neutralize these with a purple or blue toner immediately after rinsing out bleach. The cuticle is still open, allowing better toner absorption.
15. Deep condition after bleaching
Bleach strips natural moisture from hair strands. Immediately follow with a protein-rich deep conditioner for at least 30 minutes. This critical step begins repairing the porosity and damage from the bleaching process.
16. Use gloves and protective clothing
Bleach damages skin just like it damages hair. Always wear gloves that extend past your wrists and an old button-up shirt. Bleach stains are permanent, and skin contact can cause chemical burns.
17. Wait between bleaching sessions
Dark hair rarely lifts to platinum in one session. Wait at least 2-3 weeks between bleaching treatments, focusing on deep conditioning during that time. Patience prevents the dreaded chemical haircut from over-processing.
18. Avoid heat styling after bleaching
Your hair is extremely vulnerable after bleaching. Skip heat tools for at least a week. When you do resume styling, always use heat protectant and lower temperature settings to prevent further damage.
19. Know when to see a professional
If your hair has multiple colors, previous chemical treatments, or you want a dramatic change (like going platinum), see a professional. Some transformations require expertise that can’t be replicated at home.